Kaštel Kambelovac
Klapa
One week we are in a courtyard in Kaštel Kambelovac on a July night, where four men lean against a stone wall and sing for nobody, and the Dalmatians will tell you they can hear the moment a voice stops performing and starts meaning it. Pjeva mu duša, they say. His soul is singing.
Stari Grad Plain, Hvar
Gromače
Another week we are on the Stari Grad Plain on Hvar, walking between dry stone walls the Greek settlers laid out in the fourth century before Christ, still standing, still marking the same fields, still full of vines.
Rijeka, February
Karneval
Another week it is Rijeka in February, where the whole city puts a straw man called Pust on trial for everything that went wrong that year, gives him a judge and a lawyer and a weeping widow, finds him guilty, and burns him on Ash Wednesday.
Under the family house
Konoba
Another, it is the konoba, the cellar under the family house, which is so much older than the restaurants that borrowed its name that the Croatian word for waiter, konobar, means simply the man who went down to fetch the wine.