Unveiling the Hidden Soul of Opatija: How Learning Croatian Unlocks a World of Untold Stories
O, večna suzo na oke mojen. Istro moja!
(Oh, eternal tear in my eye. My Istria!)
-- Drago Gervais
Opatija, often admired for its grand hotels, elegant promenades, and the legacy of its Austro-Hungarian past, holds another, less visible side—one deeply connected to its Croatian roots. Beneath the luxurious facade lies the authentic life of the town’s original inhabitants, whose stories are woven into the fabric of the region’s culture. These are stories not often told in travel guides or history books, but they live on in the poetry of Drago Gervais, a native son of Opatija who used his words to capture the essence of the everyday people who made the town what it is.
Beyond the Glamour: The Real Opatija
Opatija’s well-known history is one of opulence and aristocracy, where European elites once gathered to enjoy the mild climate and scenic beauty. However, Gervais’s poetry offers a different perspective—one that brings to life the experiences of the local Croatian population. This side of Opatija is filled with the voices of fishermen, shepherds, and market women who, despite living in the shadows of the town’s grandeur, contributed greatly to its character.
Tri nonice
In his poem "Tri nonice" ("Three Grandmothers"), Gervais shifts the focus from the grandeur of Opatija to the intimate, everyday interactions of its older residents. The poem humorously depicts three elderly women standing in front of a house, gossiping about their neighbors. Through the seemingly simple act of criticism, Gervais paints a vivid picture of the small-town dynamics that define the social fabric of Opatija. The poem captures the humor and irony in these interactions, showing that, despite their age and wisdom, these women are not immune to the timeless human tendencies of gossip and judgment.
Tri nonice stare
pred kućun su stale
i kritikale.
I Katu, i Pepu, i Jelu,
i Toncu debelu.
Jedna da j' takova,
druga onakova,
jedna bi se rad ženit,
druga se zna lenit,
treća sve zafraja
četrta da ne vaja.
A svet da se j' pokvaril,
i prvo da j' boji bil.
Tri nonice stare
su kritikale
od osme do polna.
A kad je polne zvonilo,
jednoj je doma poć bilo.
Su dve ustale
i nju kritikale.
Or in English:
Three old grandmothers
stood in front of the house
and started criticizing.
They criticized Kata, Pepa, Jela,
and chubby Tonca.
One was like this,
the other like that,
one would rather get married,
another is lazy,
the third spends everything
the fourth is no good.
And the world has gone bad,
it used to be better.
Three old grandmothers
kept on criticizing
from eight until midnight.
And when the midnight bell rang,
one had to go home.
The remaining two stood up
and started criticizing her.
The Lavanderke: Women of Strength and Resilience
Another powerful symbol of the real Opatija is the lavanderke—the hardworking women who scrubbed, washed, and rinsed laundry by hand in the fresh mountain water that flowed down to the town. These women, often overlooked in the grand narrative of Opatija’s history, were the backbone of the community, performing essential work that supported both local families and the early tourism industry.
The lavanderke would begin their day before dawn, filling their wooden backpacks, called brente, with clean laundry and carrying it to the nearby beaches, such as Tomaševac, where tourists would bathe. This grueling work, often performed in harsh conditions, exemplifies the resilience and strength of Opatija’s local women. Despite their hard lives, the lavanderke maintained a sense of pride and dignity, embodying the spirit of the town.
The story of one such lavanderka is immortalized in Drago Gervais’s poem "Marija Lavanderka." This poem tells the tale of Marija, an Opatija laundress who toiled tirelessly to provide for her family. Despite the challenges she faced—including an abusive husband and a life of relentless labor—Marija's spirit remained unbroken. Through Gervais’s words, Marija becomes a symbol of the many women who quietly shaped the history of Opatija with their hard work and perseverance.
Marija Kantabelka,
opatijska lavanderka
je sedan dece imela,
zadnje već posivela.
I muža ki ju je vavek tukal
i grdo ju kjel,
i pul svoje žurnadi
i njiju noj zel,
zač je čovek bil žejan
i vaveki vekon pijan.
A deca kot sedan vražići
su hodila svojmi putići.
Tuju je robu Marija prala,
lušijala i režentala,
i vavek tekla od kući do kući
kot već čovek ki za drzgeh se muči.
I dokle je muž spražnjeval žmuji,
rasla joj je goba i veli žuji.
Ma ova ista Marija je vavek kantala,
za niše se svijala
i za trbuh držala,
Smela i kričala kot ponemela...
A kako bi brižna drugačje živela?
Or in English translation:
Marija Kantabelka,
Opatija's laundress,
had seven children,
her hair already turning gray.
And a husband who always beat her
and scolded her harshly,
and took everything from her,
even her last bit,
for he was always thirsty
and forever drunk.
And the children, like seven little devils,
went their own ways.
Marija washed other people's laundry,
scrubbed and rinsed it,
and always rushed from house to house,
like someone struggling for others.
And while her husband emptied his glass,
her hunch grew and her eyes dimmed.
But this same Marija always sang,
though she bent under her load and held her belly,
smiling and shouting as if she had gone mad...
But how else could a poor soul live?
The Power of the Croatian Language
Gervais wrote in Chakavian, a dialect of Croatian that is both unique and deeply expressive. It’s not just the language of communication, but a vessel for the culture and traditions of the region. To truly understand the nuances of Gervais’s poetry, including the humor and social commentary in "Tri nonice," one must engage with the language itself. The irony and wit that Gervais uses to describe the grandmothers’ gossip, for example, can only be fully appreciated in the original Chakavian dialect, where the rhythm and tone add layers of meaning.
Learning Croatian, particularly the Chakavian dialect, allows you to step into this world—where the everyday lives of the people of Opatija come alive through Gervais’s words. It’s a world where humor and social critique blend seamlessly, offering insights into the values and norms of a community that has long been overshadowed by Opatija’s glamorous image.
Discovering Untold Stories
Opatija is a town of contrasts, where the polished elegance of its past meets the rich, earthy reality of its Croatian roots. By learning Croatian, you can access the stories that are not found in history books but are preserved in the language itself—stories of resilience, community, and the simple yet profound moments that define everyday life.
Imagine reading "Tri nonice" and "Marija Lavanderka" and truly hearing the voices of these elderly women as they share their opinions on the lives of their neighbors or recall their own struggles. These voices, whether gossiping on doorsteps or scrubbing clothes by a mountain stream, reflect deeper truths about human nature and societal expectations. Through Gervais’s portrayal, we see how small-town life in Opatija mirrors universal experiences, making his work both locally specific and globally relevant.
Your Journey Begins with Language
For those with Croatian roots, learning the language is more than just a connection to your ancestry—it’s a way to fully immerse yourself in the culture and stories of the past. It’s an opportunity to experience Opatija through the eyes of those who lived there long before it became a famous resort town, to understand the values and traditions that have been passed down through generations.
Whether you’re drawn to the romanticism of Opatija’s past or the strength of its people, learning Croatian is the key to unlocking a world of stories waiting to be told. It’s the first step on a journey that will take you beyond the surface and into the heart of Croatian culture.
Start Your Language Learning Journey Today
If you’re ready to explore the hidden soul of Opatija and connect with Croatian heritage, there’s no better way to start than by learning the language. By doing so, you’ll not only gain access to the works of poets like Drago Gervais but also discover the untold stories that make Opatija so much more than just a seaside resort.
If you enjoyed learning about Drago Gervais and the authentic lives of Opatija’s fishermen, hardworking women, and everyday people, you’ll love my in-depth YouTube video on this topic! In the video, I dive even deeper into Gervais’s poetry and explore the cultural and historical significance of his work, showcasing the real Croatian spirit behind the glamorous facade of Opatija.
👉 Click here to watch the video on YouTube and immerse yourself in Gervais’s world of Opatija!
If you're ready to dive deeper into Croatian language and culture, explore my self-study courses here and here. Whether you're just starting or want to fine-tune your skills, there's something for everyone. Interested in a more guided experience? Join the waitlist for my upcoming in-depth courses here and here and be the first to know when enrollment opens!
