Glagolitic Priests, Chakavian Traditions, and a Little Girl’s Christmas: The Heart of Mošćenice Through Time and Tunes

Naš kraj je zvanka brižan, prez polja i prez vode,
i sunce u njen pali, kamenje u njen gori,
a svaki mu čovik za kruh se mučno bori,
za goli svoj život, za malo lih slobode.
Svejeno nan je drag ti oštar kamik svaki,
i skasi i pećine i doci i doline,
sve muke i sve patnje i sunca zraki jaki,
a uko svega more, ko gledaš od miline.
Zaš mi smo dica sunca i vina crlenoga,
i mora velikoga i juga teple krvi.
Kad ulika urodi, to dar nan je od Boga,
kad loza nan ponese, na svitu mi smo prvi.
Svo srebro, ča se svitli, svo zlato, ča je kadi
je manje milo srcu od litice i krasa
Svi naš život je vezan uko trdog skasa,
di su nan ustali dani mladi.*

-- Mate Balota, Dragi kamik

As you read about the rich traditions of Mošćenice and the Glagolitic heritage, be sure to check out my YouTube video at the end for more insights and visuals. It’s a perfect complement to the stories and history I share in this post. Stay tuned until the end for the link!

The Glagolitic priests hold a special place in the heart of Croatian history, culture, and even in my own childhood memories. They weren’t just religious figures; they were guardians of a unique script and language that shaped not only the Croatian identity but also the identity of an entire region. Their legacy, deeply rooted in the coastal areas of Istria and Dalmatia, has traveled through time, touching every generation—including mine.

The Legacy of Cyril and Methodius: The Beginning of Something Special

To truly understand the importance of the Glagolitic priests, we have to go back to the 9th century and to two remarkable brothers—Saints Cyril (Ćiril) and Methodius. They weren’t Croatian, but their influence resonates deeply in the history of Croatia’s coastal region, especially in Hrvatsko primorje. These brothers from Thessalonica were sent on a mission to Christianize the Slavic people, and in doing so, they created the Glagolitic script—the very first alphabet for the Slavs.

Now, why is this significant for Croatia? Unlike most of Europe, where Latin was the dominant language for religious services, Cyril and Methodius introduced the Old Church Slavonic language into the liturgy, using their newly invented Glagolitic script. It was a groundbreaking moment for the Slavic world, and Pope Hadrian II’s approval of their work gave this language a rare privilege: liturgical status within the Catholic Church.

In Croatia, especially in Istria, northern Dalmatia, and the islands, the Glagolitic script was adopted and preserved, becoming a cornerstone of Croatian identity. The Glagolitic priests became the carriers of this tradition, ensuring that the Croatian people could worship in their own language and express their faith in a way that felt personal and powerful.

Baška, Jurandvor, and the Glagolitic Script’s Monument: The Baška Tablet

Perhaps the most famous example of the Glagolitic script's importance in Croatian history is the Baška Tablet (Bašćanska ploča), a stone monument that dates back to around 1100 AD. Found in the small village of Jurandvor on the island of Krk, this tablet is one of the earliest records of the Croatian language written in Glagolitic script. It's more than just a historical artifact—it's a tangible link to our past, a symbol of the centuries-long struggle to preserve the Croatian language and identity under foreign rule.

The Baška Tablet mentions King Zvonimir, one of Croatia’s greatest kings, and it serves as an enduring testament to the country’s medieval sovereignty. For me, hearing about the Baška Tablet as a child was like hearing about a national treasure—something that felt ancient yet very much alive in our modern world. And as a kid, I remember thinking how cool it was that our ancestors carved their words into stone. I may not have fully grasped the historical significance then, but I knew this script was part of who we were.

Glagolitic Letters Today: A Fun Childhood Secret Code

Fast forward to today, and you can still see the Glagolitic legacy everywhere in Croatia. You can even buy an abacus with Glagolitic letters and numbers—a playful, modern homage to this ancient script.

When I was growing up, though, the Glagolitic script was more than just a relic of the past; it was part of our everyday lives. I remember how, as kids, we would use Glagolitic letters to write secret notes to each other. It was our own private code! My friends and I would sit for hours, scribbling out messages in Glagolitic, convinced that our parents would have no clue what we were saying. It felt like we were part of a long tradition, even if we were just trying to keep our innocent secrets from mom and dad.

The Glagolitic script was more than a code for us—it was a way of connecting with our heritage without even realizing it. It wasn’t just something old people or historians talked about; it was part of our world, part of the way we played and learned about who we were as Croatians.

How the Chakavian Assembly (Čakavski Sabor) Kept the Glagolitic Spirit Alive

The role of the Chakavian Assembly (Čakavski sabor) in keeping the Glagolitic tradition alive cannot be overstated. Founded in 1970, at a time when Croatia was part of Yugoslavia, the Assembly dedicated itself to preserving the Chakavian dialect and the Glagolitic heritage—both of which were central to the cultural identity of the region. They organized scientific conferences, published books, and kept the Glagolitic language alive through education and art.

Growing up, I remember hearing about the work of the Chakavian Assembly and feeling a sense of pride. Mom was a very active member. She regularly took me with her on fairs and workshops, I sang the song, and tried to play folk instruments (roženic and sopile), I went to a kažun buliding workshop in the Istrian field with the gang from Čakavski sabor. Oh, the memories!

Even during the complicated political landscape of Yugoslavia, they never stopped fighting to keep these cultural treasures alive. It was inspiring to see that, while much of the world was modernizing and moving away from old traditions, there were people who cared deeply about preserving the history and language that made us unique. In many ways, the Chakavian Assembly helped make sure that the Glagolitic priests' legacy didn’t fade into obscurity.

For me, Mošćenice was where the work of the Assembly felt most tangible. It wasn’t just an abstract concept; it was the town where I took my piano lessons, the place where the Church of St. Andrew stood tall, and where I would play the organ every Christmas as a little girl. My teacher, a proud local, would sit beside me, pressing the pedals while I focused on playing the keys, and I would gaze up at the altar, feeling like I was part of something much bigger than myself. Little did I know that this moment—so personal and magical—was also a continuation of a cultural and historical legacy that spanned centuries.

A Personal Connection: Mošćenice, Music, and Memory

Mošćenice, with its steep streets, stunning views of Kvarner, and historical monuments, was the backdrop of my childhood musical adventures. Every Christmas, my piano teacher, who was from Mošćenice, would gather her students for a concert in the Church of St. Andrew. As a child, I was more focused on hitting the right notes than understanding the historical significance of where I was playing. But now, looking back, I realize how beautifully intertwined those moments were with the larger story of Glagolitic heritage and the preservation of Croatian culture.

The Church of St. Andrew, where I played Christmas carols on the organ, was a living reminder of the Glagolitic priests and the centuries of tradition they upheld. It was as if the music I was playing, those simple Christmas tunes, was echoing the voices of the past—the chants of the priests, the prayers of the people, the rhythms of the Glagolitic script etched into stone and wood.

Why It All Matters

The Glagolitic priests, Cyril and Methodius, the Baška Tablet, and the work of the Chakavian Assembly—all of these are not just points in a history book. They are living, breathing parts of Croatia's identity. For nearly a thousand years, the Glagolitic tradition allowed Croatians to maintain their language, culture, and sense of self even in the face of foreign rule and political upheaval.

When I think about why learning Croatian is so important, I think about my childhood in Mošćenice, the piano lessons, the secret Glagolitic notes, and the sense of connection to something much bigger than myself. By learning Croatian, you’re not just learning a language—you’re stepping into a long, rich tradition that has been lovingly preserved by generations of people who understood its value.

So, whether you're buying a Glagolitic abacus, visiting the Baška Tablet, or simply writing a secret note in Glagolitic script, you're becoming part of a story that spans centuries.

And that, in itself, is something magical.

*translation of the poem given as a motto

Our land is rugged, barren, without fields and waters,
And the sun burns it, the stones smolder in its heat,
And every man here struggles hard for bread,
For his bare life, for just a little bit of freedom.
Yet, we love every sharp stone,
The cliffs, the rocks, the ravines, and the valleys,
All the struggles, all the suffering, and the harsh rays of the sun,
And above all, the sea, which you gaze at with joy.
For we are children of the sun and red wine,
Of the great sea and the warm blood of the south.
When the olive tree bears fruit, it's a gift from God,
When the vine produces, we feel like the best in the world.
All the silver that glitters, all the gold, wherever it may be,
Is less dear to our hearts than the cliffs and rocky ground.
Our whole life is tied to this rugged stone,
Where our youthful days have remained.

-- Beloved stone by Mate Balota, a Chakavian poet

If you enjoyed this deep dive into Mošćenice and its traditions, don't miss my YouTube video where I explore these topics even further. Watch it here for visuals, stories, and more insights into the Croatian cultural heritage.

If you're ready to dive deeper into Croatian language and culture, explore my self-study courses here and here. Whether you're just starting or want to fine-tune your skills, there's something for everyone. Interested in a more guided experience? Join the waitlist for my upcoming in-depth courses here and here and be the first to know when enrollment opens!